About: Barbarian Days, a surfing life   Goto Sponge  NotDistinct  Permalink

An Entity of Type : rdac:C10001, within Data Space : data.idref.fr associated with source document(s)

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type
Author
alternative label
  • Jours barbares, une vie de surf
dc:subject
  • Autobiographie
  • Surf
  • R├ęcits personnels
  • Surfeurs
  • Finnegan, William (1952-....) -- Autobiographie
  • Surfers -- United States -- Biography
preferred label
  • Barbarian Days, a surfing life
Language
Subject
dc:title
  • Barbarian Days, a surfing life
note
  • Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely : a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. \"Barbarian Days\" takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses - off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly - he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui - is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist : unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs.
dc:type
  • Text
http://iflastandar...bd/elements/P1001
rdaw:P10219
  • 2016
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